Thursday, August 11, 2016

Disinfecting: 70% Ispropyl alcohol vs 99%

There has been a long-held "debate" among people about 70% Isopropyl Alcohol (PROPAN-2-OL) vs 99%. Even some industry pros consider 99% to be the best method to disinfect their tools and others have argued that 99% is best because it's the strongest. The Centers for Disease Control & Prevention (CDC) did research on disinfecting and sanitizing methods which they published in 2008 as Guideline for Disinfection and Sterilization in Healthcare Facilities. Makeup artist Hillary Wehrle contacted the CDC earlier this year about what do they suggest to clean her cosmetic brushes and products.

Here's the response the CDC sent to Hillary.

"Thank you for contacting the CDC regarding disinfection practices in your practice.

In reference to your first question regarding the recommended concentration for disinfecting surfaces with alcohol, we know that alcohol will denature and coagulate or "fix" proteins. Therefore, alcohol's antimicrobial properties are best used when the alcohol can make contact with key physiological enzymes and protein structure inside a bacterial cell or fungal cell or virus. Use of the more concentrated solutions (95% or 99%) will result in almost immediate coagulation of surface or cell wall proteins and prevent passage of the alcohol into the cell. The benefits of using 70% alcohol are: 1) coagulation of surface proteins proceeds at a slower pace, thereby allowing the alcohol to enter into the cell; 2) 70% alcohol, being a dilution of absolute alcohol, contains water which is essential in the denaturing process of proteins; and 3) because of concentration difference of water and alcohol on either side of the cell wall, 70% alcohol enters the cell to denature both enzymatic and structural proteins. This increases the potency of its antimicrobial properties."
So what does this mean? It means that the CDC recommends 70% (up to 91% according to their site) for disinfecting one's tools or even products because 95% and 99% essentially "freezes" (coagulates) the cell.  When a cell surface coagulates the best analogy to picture it is Han Solo "frozen" in carbonite. He's alive inside but "frozen" on the outside and nothing can penetrate the shell. Essentially that's what happens to the cell when you use 95% or 99% Isopropyl Alcohol which makes using it for disinfecting purposes useless.

I personally did follow-up with the CDC and specifically asked the following:
Many of my peers swear by 99% alcohol (some use 91%, few use 95%) while I use and advocate the usage of 70% isopropyl alcohol for sanitizing things such as cosmetic brushes and pressed powders or lipsticks. A colleague of mine emailed the CDC and the response is as follows. Is it accurate? Which version should a makeup artist be using to sanitize their work tool and products?
Several days passed and eventually a member of the CDC's Division of Healthcare Quality Promotion Public Inquiries team replied to me with the following:
"Thank you for contacting CDC with your recent inquiry as to the most appropriate concentration of alcohol to use for make-up tool sanitation. The information in the previous response is scientifically correct, and explains why the 70% concentration of alcohol has more germ-killing power compared to more concentrated alcohols. When using alcohol to sanitize your make-up tools (or any other device for that matter), you will enhance the overall germ-killing properties of the sanitizing process if you clean your tools and brushes first and rinse them very well with water. The cleaning step will help to physically remove skin cells and make-up chemicals from the tools and brushes, thereby minimizing the amount of soil and protein material that can reduce the potency of the alcohol. To further enhance the sanitizing effect of the alcohol soaking, allow the tools and brushes to soak for a few minutes, then rinse with clean water and allow to dry."

So which % of Isopropyl Alcohol should a makeup artist or even you should be using to sanitize and disinfect their products or tools like brushes? 70% to 91% per the CDC. Save the 99% for alcohol activated cosmetic palettes because alcohol palettes such as PPI and other types use 99%. Can't find anything less than 99% or 95%? You can dilute it down using distilled water but you need to make sure your ratios are accurate or it may not be effective. I use 70% and 91% (I like the Trigger spray in my 91% CVS bottle) when sanitizing my tools.

Big thanks to Hillary Wehrle for contacting the CDC and getting clarification on which % to use!

Friday, July 29, 2016

IMATS L.A. 2017 - Tickets available for sale starting August 2!

IMATS announced a few days ago that general admission tickets will go on sale August 2 at 10 AM Pacific (1 PM Eastern).

Tickets will be $60 each day and $40 for the Pro-Card Event on Friday. Gold and Platinum members go in for free, all other card holders tickets are discounted per your card color.

White Cards (Standard): 20% off
Blue & Red Cards: 10% off

Tuesday, July 19, 2016

Kat Von D's accusations against Jeffree Star (Cosmetics)

This blog post is made under Section 107 of the Copyright Act which "provides the statutory framework for determining whether something is a fair use and identifies certain types of uses—such as criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching, scholarship, and research—as examples of activities that may qualify as fair use."

So more internet drama with cosmetic companies. In recent weeks it was Matthew Chase Gilbert suing former friend Jaclyn Hill over her use and non-payment of the logo Chase designed for her. That lawsuit is pending and according to Pacer records her attorney is still trying to get the case dismissed but they're still set for mediation the coming months. So what does any of that have to do with the social media "war" going on between Kat Von D and Jeffree Star? EVERYTHING. It is essentially the SAME THING that's going on between Chase and Jaclyn Hill so pay attention beauty bloggers launching your own cosmetic lines or doing collaborations with other companies. YOU do not own your own logos unless you have a oiece of paper from the designer granting you the copyright ownership to your logo. Even if it's your name on the logo the actual design of the logo may belong to someone else.

So let me get into what happened and the ramification of what it means to the social media industry.

Friday, July 8, 2016

Goodbye Birchbox!

I know I haven't been blogging in a long time but I have maintained my subscription with Birchbox during my time away from blogging. Unfortunately due to all the new changes happening at Birchbox, such as them essentially getting rid of the review for points system, the July 2016 box is my final box. I've been a member since May 24, 2011 and have spent probably about $600 on my subscription since then. I think I was a yearly member at some point. I know I quit at some point only to come back right away.

To be honest I haven't paid attention to my actual subscription in over a year. I get the $10.63 a month deducted from my bank each month, I get the box of samples, I open the box to see if things are okay and what I got then I essentially either toss the box aside, use some of the items or pass it along to a family member. I lost interest in Birchbox because the sample sizes or quality have peaked my interest and a lot of it is repeats. How many Smashbox mascaras do I need?

What made Birchbox set apart from all the other beauty sampling programs out there was the review for points incentive. For each sample you get when you review you would get 10 points. Accumulate 100 points and you get a $10 credit to use in Birchbox's online store. I know I amassed a lot of products for free or near free over the years this way and the points system was why I didn't quit sooner.

As of this month you'll be allowed to review five of the samples for those 10 points each. After that no more review points for you. The points expired after six months rather than a years so those trying to accumulate points for a better purchase deal well you might want to use those points up NOW. I know I have over 500 points of which most will expire soon under the new system. So I'll be using my points up, canceling my subscription right after and see ya Birchbox!

In my July box.
  1. MDSolarSciences™ Mineral Crème SPF 50 Broad Spectrum UVA-UVB Sunscreen - 0.25 oz sample. Made in the USA
  2. Raw Spirit Fragrances Mystic Pearl Eau de Parfum - 0.5 oz sample. Made in the USA
  3. Balance Me Radiance Face Mask - 0.5 oz sample. Made in the UK.
  4. Smashbox Cosmetics X-Rated Mascara - Sample. Made in Canada.
  5. Marcelle 3-in-1 Micellar Solution - 1.7 oz sample. Made in Canada

Monday, June 20, 2016

Industry News: Jaclyn Hill lawsuit

Credit: Jaclyn Hill
Social Media Personality Jaclyn Hill is being sued by former friend Mathew Chase Gilbert over what he alleges is copyright infringement and fraud. There's a lot of talk online both on YouTube and various social media sites discussing the situation with a lot of misinformation and gossip about the subject. So let me present the known facts of the case.

Before any Jaclyn Hill fans decide to bash me for this blog post please keep in mind I'm simply presenting the facts as known along with my personal opinion.

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